A restaurant in three of the Line’s dead trams, coupled on the last road of the Sidings behind Gadara’s sties, open one day in seven, the seventh, the day the Throne rested. Every dish on its board is one the Book forbids, and it takes its name from the commandment it breaks first, “Thou shalt not seethe a kid in his mother’s milk” (Exodus 23:19).
It keeps the fourth commandment backwards, “Six days shalt thou labour, and do all thy work: But the seventh day is the sabbath of the LORD thy God: in it thou shalt not do any work” (Exodus 20:9-10), and stands dark and locked six days to work the seventh flat out. The fire is lit at Matins on the seventh day, against “Ye shall kindle no fire throughout your habitations upon the sabbath day” (Exodus 35:3), and the whole kitchen goes out first along the dead roads in the dark to gather the sticks for it, after the man the congregation stoned outside the camp for doing the same (Numbers 15:32-36). The cook who runs the house goes by sticks. A stone the size of a fist sits on every table, for the congregation, and the diners crack their crab and their marrow bones with it.
The board is the eleventh chapter of Leviticus read as a menu, chalked in the chapter’s order with the verse under each dish and IT IS UNCLEAN UNTO YOU where the price goes. The kid comes whole to a table of six for two thirties, seethed since Lauds in a copper of its own dam’s milk, the dam one of the forty nannies Gadara keeps in its eighth hall for the house alone, bred in turn under keyed lamps. After it the swine, a LEGION pig killed across the yard at Matins and run over on a flat truck along the rails, its crackling cut at the table. Then eel, crab, shrimp and squid off the Flotilla, everything that “hath no fins nor scales” (Leviticus 11:12); bat and owl on the skewer; snails and the drains’ rats braised in Blight’s mushrooms; black pudding, and a bowl of the pig’s blood still warm, under “Ye shall eat the blood of no manner of flesh” (Leviticus 17:14).
The last course is the fat. Leviticus gives every scrap of it to the altar, “all the fat is the LORD’s” (Leviticus 3:16), and SEETHE fries the day’s suet and caul crisp and brings it out on a tin platter called THE LORD’S SHARE, which the table eats with its fingers. The diners wipe their hands on the wall over the door, and it has gone black and soft as a saddle.
The cooks work stripped to the waist in the heat of the cars, forearms plated to the elbow and horns on most of them, carving on the tables with the blood running off into channels the house cut in the boards. The aprons and the cloths are linen woven through with wool, after “neither shall a garment mingled of linen and woollen come upon thee” (Leviticus 19:19). Nobody eats with a fork. Strangers feed each other the kid’s eyes across the table, the Calf’s blood wine goes round in the kid’s own skull when the bones are picked, and a party that clears the whole board signs the ceiling of its car in grease, so that the first car’s roof is a hide of names.
The smoke goes up over High Meadow all the seventh day, and its parish halls read the eleventh chapter of Leviticus aloud at Vespers on the seventh day as a warning, which the Sidings calls reading out the menu. At Vespers two Deacons of High Meadow stand at the end of the road in their white with a basket of manna for any diner who will repent and eat clean, and the house sends them a plate of crackling, which the Deacons pray over and burn in the road before they walk home ahead of the curfew. sticks counts every plate they burn as an order and puts it on the parish’s tab.
The fire goes out at Matins on the Lord’s Day, as the parishes kneel for the first Hour of the Lord’s Day, and the cooks put it out by pissing on it together in a ring round the pit, which the house calls the benediction. Pan has taken to calling the seventh day Seethe day.